I thought I would share a bit about how I paint micro mini equine sculpture - the basics of how I mask a pattern and then rough it out using an etching technique is the same for me whether it's a micro or a larger piece, cold painted or custom glazed.  Over which I then add layers of paint using cut down detail brushes to refine and soften details.  The etching left by itself is, in my opinion, too coarse.  Especially on micro minis!  This post is not intended to take the place of an actual 'hands on' workshop where I can help you every step of the way, but is a brief introduction.  There is no right or wrong way to paint micro minis, this is just how I do them myself.

The first step is priming the micro to remove any seams or 3D printing marks, nubs, divots, print lines, etc using fine sand paper or steel wool.  If pewter I buff them well with 0000 steel wool to remove any mold release, oxidation, and to add micro scratches to the surface to better hold painted layers.  Then I mount them onto an easy to hold thick rod using double sided foam tape and airbrush prime my micros with a layer of smooth white acrylic.  That layer needs to cure over night before proceeding.  Any white markings are masked using liquid latex which I remove after I have airbrushed on my basic color.  This is a micro mini Stormwatch sculpted by Sarah Minkiewicz-Breunig and 3D printed in resin, just begun as a dark bay sabino.  Masking has been removed but not yet cleaned up.

The next phase is to rough in the pattern using an fine tipped craft knife.  I am very careful to try not to cut through the white paint layer and only remove the colored layer as much as possible.  If I do accidentally cut through the white layer I just touch it up with carefully with white paint later.  In the video below I have roughed in the appaloosa pattern on a 'Maelzela' micro sculpted by Maggie Bennett and cast in pewter rather than resin.  You may open the video full screen if you wish to view it larger.

Etching alone will be too coarse and rough, especially for a micro.  But with any size piece once I have laid in the hair pattern and detailed it as far as I can reasonably go, I will then continue with additional layers over top that I paint very carefully.  For micros I cut down used up old detail brushes to just a few short hairs for ultra fine detailing and I use a magnifying lamp to see up close.  I also use my phone to zoom way in and see if there are areas I still need to refine and clean up better on later layers.  Below is the same micro mini Stormwatch 3D printed resin showing his other side with thin paint being added to soften and expand his white areas further for roaning effects.  Over this I also add tiny darker color spotting for sabino lacing and add pastel or oils to start pushing his base color richer.  If I use any colored pencil I use low wax brands and make sure they are well sealed with varnish so it can't rub off later with handling.

With patience, magnification, and many layers, details can be refined.  Typically I don't paint more than one micro mini in a given month.  While the actual work can be completed within about a week or less my poor eyes and back require many breaks to work on larger pieces.  Layering up and refining the details over and over and OVER again takes persistence and a refusal to stop until I am satisfied with every aspect, however long it takes!  I will use my magnifying lamp and my phone to zoom in and check every little bit including the tedious painting of the eyes!

Finally when you are completely finished make sure you seal your work so it is protected from damage and is easy to clean.  I strongly suggest that if you invest in collecting micro minis of any kind that you either always wear clean white museum gloves when handling them, or wash your hands EVERY time before you pick them up.  Otherwise skin oils and dirt will quickly make a stunning and expensive paintjob look dirty and drab.  If sealed properly and handled with care, such pieces can last a life time and more!  I make mine durable enough to be gently washed with soap and water if they get dingy over time.

Here the appaloosa 'Maelzela' has been completed, sealed with matte varnish with glossed eyes and hooves.  I have decorated her custom sculpted base as a custom order for a client.  Photographing such pieces can be quite a challenge in itself, and then packing them for shipping!  Some of these micro minis only stand a little over one inch tall, or less, and can be very fragile.  Depending on what they are made of I either double box them or cut custom foam just like I do when I ship fragile ceramics.  Enjoy and I hope you find this brief, free tutorial inspiring on how I paint micro mini equine sculpture.